• Hello guest! Are you a Tegu enthusiast? If so, we invite you to join our community! Our site is specifically designed for you and it's a great place for Tegu enthusiasts to meet online. Once you join you'll be able to post messages, upload pictures of your Tegu and enclosure and have a great time with other Tegu fans. Sign up today! If you have any questions, problems, or other concerns email [email protected]!

F/T versus live

jdpFL

New Member
Messages
212
Here are pics, as promised. The scars are ALL the way down this snakes back....photo doesn't really show how severe these old wounds must have been. Poor fella was being eaten alive basically. If you are going to feed live, I recommend: DO NOT leave the prey unsupervised in with your snake!

Doing all this from my phone, so I hope you can see the scars. I need to do a you tube account and make some videos!
 

Attachments

  • IMAG0932.jpg
    IMAG0932.jpg
    1.3 MB · Views: 8
  • IMAG0940.jpg
    IMAG0940.jpg
    1.1 MB · Views: 6

dragonmetalhead

Active Member
1,000+ Post Club
Messages
1,037
jdpFL said:
Here are pics, as promised. The scars are ALL the way down this snakes back....photo doesn't really show how severe these old wounds must have been. Poor fella was being eaten alive basically. If you are going to feed live, I recommend: DO NOT leave the prey unsupervised in with your snake!

Doing all this from my phone, so I hope you can see the scars. I need to do a you tube account and make some videos!



Poor little guy!
 

Strange_Evil

Member
5 Year Member
Messages
896
F/T is better in just about every way. Not all snakes will take f/t, which is why its best to buy from a breeder who already started his snakes off on f/t rats.

When switching to f/t, its all about patience, they will not go for it immediately if live is all they we're feed, give it time. You haven't had the snake long enough too put in any real effort on switching over. Just keep trying, go to the store pick up some adult mice or rat pups f/t, first try the zombie dance, make sure the rodent is warm, if that doesn't work, brain it and leave it in over night. This is how i switched my BP over and got my boa eating. Took some time, but in the end was we'll worth it, just remember they can go quite a while without food.


But if you decide to feed live, just make sure you find some decent size rats, if your going to start him on mice be prepared to feed about 2 or 3 adult mice at a feeding to an adult.
 

jdpFL

New Member
Messages
212
No problem. And while we are on the topic...discovered a little problem with my hatchling BP thus morning....tiny little bumps, like pimples almost, filed with clear fluid. Never had this problem before with any of my snakes....after research found it can come from too much humidity in the substrate! Changed out substrate and probably will switch to aspen for at least that tiny hatchling. Not sure if this is more common in baby snakes? So, just a word of caution, watch that it's not too damp or humid! Sheesh. Learn something new everyday.
 

got10

Member
Messages
603
roastedspleen said:
now i want to know why so many people say pre killed food items for reptiles is so much better. this morning pokey just ate a live hopper. i have heard of the possibiltys of biting but those little things wouldnt touch me when i stuck my hand in there.

although i can say iv been bit by my dads girlfriends pet rat (bled a LOT)
i dont know how much it would damage my snake

I witnessed in my early days of herping ,a rat bite through a cal kings spine , disembowel a water snake and attempt to escape being eaten by large monitor. The guy in the pet store was going to just keep putting it in a cage til something ate it. That is what made me believe that deader is better
 

Strange_Evil

Member
5 Year Member
Messages
896
jdpFL said:
No problem. And while we are on the topic...discovered a little problem with my hatchling BP thus morning....tiny little bumps, like pimples almost, filed with clear fluid. Never had this problem before with any of my snakes....after research found it can come from too much humidity in the substrate! Changed out substrate and probably will switch to aspen for at least that tiny hatchling. Not sure if this is more common in baby snakes? So, just a word of caution, watch that it's not too damp or humid! Sheesh. Learn something new everyday.

Could you get pics?
 

Dirtydmc

New Member
Messages
448
james.w said:
Dirtydmc said:
Rodents bite when they are about to die. Self preservation. I have a rescued boa, she had a large wound on her. Looked horrible. I've had her for about 4 months and have been using medicine on her. It's still very much there. She can only eat small prey. While the wound is healing, it takes along time. Snakes don't heal very well. Sometimes not at all.


They can get aggressive during feeding. Live prey brings out their wild side. Both my snakes eat live prey. Well, almost live. Ramses food gets wacked on the head before he eats. Rats leave big holes. Cloe is a master killer and gets perfect strikes everytime. But her food is allways babys. Once she is fully healed ill wacky hers on the head too.

One more thing. Live food costs way more. $20 for one feeding for two snakes. Frozen guys are around 50 cents a piece if you buy in bulk. And no nasty smell in your house from raising food.



Why don't you feed F/T than? Especially if you are paying $10 per rat, that is ridiculous. Where do you buy your food?



$5.00 a rat. $1.50 for hoppers. Because they won't eat f/t. If it doesn't move, they won't touch it. Ramses was that way when he had his second feeding. Of his life. Got him as soon as he had his first meal. He refused read things. Left them in his box for a.very long time. Would touch them unless I held them in tongs and made them move.
Cloe is the same way. Must be moving.
 

james.w

Active Member
1,000+ Post Club
5 Year Member
Messages
4,337
You feed them each 2 rats per feeding? They can be switched, it just takes patience and persistance. Why not just wiggle it in front of them until they take it?
 

jdpFL

New Member
Messages
212
Strange, I'm not sure I can get pics of the bumps....they are tiny....this is only about an 11 inch hatchling! I will try tomorrow, have to soak him daily with soap and water anyway, just in case. The bumps themselves aren't supposed to be dangerous,, but risk of infection is. I've had BP's for years and have never had this happen....I think his hide only was too moist, but, since thats where he spends most of his time.....
 

james.w

Active Member
1,000+ Post Club
5 Year Member
Messages
4,337
jdpFL said:
Strange, I'm not sure I can get pics of the bumps....they are tiny....this is only about an 11 inch hatchling! I will try tomorrow, have to soak him daily with soap and water anyway, just in case. The bumps themselves aren't supposed to be dangerous,, but risk of infection is. I've had BP's for years and have never had this happen....I think his hide only was too moist, but, since thats where he spends most of his time.....

You may want to keep him on paper towels until it clears up.
 

JohnMatthew

Active Member
1,000+ Post Club
5 Year Member
Messages
1,083
roastedspleen said:
LOL i dont think i could ever kill a rat or mouse....
i guess i could try it next week when i have to feed again
how would i do so without being cruel?

I use a method similar to the one suggested on this site for cervical dislocation when pre-killing is required.
http://research.uiowa.edu/animal/?get=euthanasia
 

Members online

No members online now.

Forum statistics

Threads
20,156
Messages
177,969
Members
10,422
Latest member
Jury
Top