# 8x4x29" enclosure help



## Skeetzy (Apr 19, 2012)

First off, this is being built for my Varnyard '12 tegu that I will be getting in June/July. I was going to buy a Boamaster 8' tall, but after checking craigslist I found a local guy that is willing to build me an enclosure to my specs for half the price. I decided on 8x4x29" because the doorways to my room are only 29.5" and I want to be able to just turn the enclosure sideways to get it in. I have pretty much everything planned after reading multiple DIY threads, and am having it made out of 3/4" thick plywood, sealed with Drylok, and framed to support its weight. The doors are drop-down with plexiglass windows, that will sit 1.5' off the base, to allow a 14-16" mulch substrate depth. Will also be installing adjustable vents to allow for some airflow and to help control humidity.

Now my first question comes with heating/lighting. I planned on dropping close to $900 on the cage and furnishings from the get go, and was only quoted $350-400 for the cage, so I have a bigger budget for the heating than planned. Originally I wanted built in ceramic fixtures to house regular spot lamps, but heard that heat panels are nicer and more efficient. What do you guys recommend as far as brand/wattage go? Maybe heat tape over heat panel? And do you guys use thermostat controllers? What one would you recommend?

I plan on doing (2) 3' fluorescent fixtures mounted on the back wall towards the top with Arcadia D3+ UVB bulbs. I don't like MVB bulbs all that much, even though I use one for my Mississippi Map Turtle. And I use ReptiSun 10.0's right now for my bearded dragon, but I heard the Arcadia are much nicer. 

The second question comes with the humidity. I know daily misting will help keep the humidity to the desired levels, but I also read of some people using reptile foggers. What is everyone's preferred way of this? Money again not being too much of an issue. 

Furnishings I already have a collection built up from collection things for my bearded dragon(and past ones). I have a lot of driftwood that will be making its way to the oven soon to sterilize, one piece that is about 3' long that I have to find a way to clean since it won't fit. Also have some rocks and what not to help fill the empty space. 

Third question is I was curious about a water dish, and what people do for their tegu's? I would like to build in some sort of "pool" for mine with a filter, to avoid having to change it daily, but am worried of how well that would work. I don't like the look of just a random plastic tote filled with water.

Any suggestions are very helpful! I want to do this enclosure right the first time, and have it the entire life of the tegu. I'd rather spend $800/900 now, than $400 now and $900 later when I have to do it right. Sorry for the long thread, I'm very excited about this little guy. I've wanted one for almost a year now, and the day's getting closer and closer!


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## Skeetzy (Apr 30, 2012)

Damn 76 reads, over a week, and no replies :huh:


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## tommyboy (May 1, 2012)

Personally I have never found the need for heat tape or heat panels due to the amount of heat generated from a good Mercury Vapor Bulb. On my larger enclosures I also use a ceramic heat emitter with the MVB which handles an 8ft enclosure with no problems.

There are all sorts of repti foggers on the market, and you can find many threads on this forum about different brands. A lot of members use a room humidifier purchased from Walgreens with a lot of success. You can also find threads on here about them. There are also some good Youtube videos on these as well. My enclosure holds humidity in very well. With daily misting and a large water bowl, I have no need for a fogger. 

When your new tegu is little it is easy to want decorations, waterfalls and pools with filters. However, when he gets larger it may be a waste of your time and money. No matter how nice you arrange the inside of the enclosure, they will thrash it in a matter if minutes!! They love to do their own "decorating". I did a nice filtered pool years ago with little to no success. It was constantly filled with substrate that will clog a filter system. I have found over the years that a plain old tub of water works best. I put a clean, heavy cement block in mine to try and avoid the big guys from tipping it over. Even that does not work most of the time! I think that when they are larger its easier to simplify the inside of my enclosure. I have a large hide, a large water tub and a basking area made if cement pavers set up at differnt heights. 

In the end its about what YOU want it to be and you will certainly learn from trial and error as most of us have. It is great to see your enthusiasm and desire to provide the best habitat and care for your new friend. Best of luck!!


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## NorCalAl (May 1, 2012)

I've bought four radiant heat panels - RHP - from three different makers. I understand, though, that most of the panels come from the same manufacturer and are then wired up by the various retailers - not sure if that's true. 

Helix makes/retails some very nice units. The plugs are not attached to the cords allowing you to snake the cord through a small hole then attach the plug itself. That is nice, but it makes for a rather cheesy plug. Even so, Helix is used by many green tree python people and I've never heard of one failing. Boaphile also makes/retails several models. These come with the plug attached and the cord and plug are nice, heavy duty units. Since we're not dealing with small, skinny little escape artists here (like green trees), the hole from the plug is probably not an issue. The place you should go to is Pro-Products. These guys will not give you a quote without you answering a little questionnaire on the cage and the conditions. That ensures you'll get the correct size and wattage of heat panel. 

RHP's operate at lower wattages and lower temps. They make it pretty difficult to burn yourself or your animal, although I wouldn't want to keep my hand on one for any length of time! I have a green tree in a 2x2x2 Vision, in a room that often (in winter) drops to the 40's and the 55w one in there can keep the warm side at 84-86f all year long. Provided, naturally, that outside temps don't exceed that! 

I asked about these very panels before, but I think a lot of the knowledge of them is consolidated in the forums that work with nocturnal herps. They don't need (or sometimes want) the light part of the heat light. My panels range from 9x9" to 17x11" so they take up a lot of space on top - which might mean you have to mount a UV light further away than you might want to. Also, the heat generated is over a large space. I'm not 100% sure you could get your hot spot to 100f with one. I measure about 6" from the RHP and have it set for 84f and never tried for more. I'd certainly ask the guys at Pro-Products - they will know, trust me. 

I'd really like to hear about your results should you get one. I'm going to try using them in my ackie cage for overall ambient heat. Since the room can get so cold, by using two controllers, I can maintain temps on both the hot side and cool side with two panels. I'd love to hear what you find out about using them for basking spots.


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## Skeetzy (May 2, 2012)

tommyboy said:


> Personally I have never found the need for heat tape or heat panels due to the amount of heat generated from a good Mercury Vapor Bulb. On my larger enclosures I also use a ceramic heat emitter with the MVB which handles an 8ft enclosure with no problems.
> 
> There are all sorts of repti foggers on the market, and you can find many threads on this forum about different brands. A lot of members use a room humidifier purchased from Walgreens with a lot of success. You can also find threads on here about them. There are also some good Youtube videos on these as well. My enclosure holds humidity in very well. With daily misting and a large water bowl, I have no need for a fogger.
> 
> ...



I'm all too familiar with Ceramic Heat Emitters, MVB's, spot lights, UVB's, etc. My beardie, map turtle, and dubia roaches have gone through an assorment of lights and heating. I love the look of fluorescent lighting, so no matter what (2) 36" fixtures will be in there. But I'm debating whether to do 2 UVB bulbs in them, with a regular spot light for a basking spot; Or 2 regular light bulbs and a MVB for basking spot. Then either a CHE or heat panel for ambient temperature. The MVB route will definitely be cheaper, but I like the idea of UVB being all over the cage as opposed to the one spot. And the heat panel vs CHE is something I need to debate. Both seem to be able to do the job. 

And thanks very much for the Walgreens info. Second time in two days Walgreens will have an item I'm looking for haha. 

Disappointed to hear about the pool situation. I really enjoy setting up their enclosures, and would really like to find a way to incorporate the water into the "natural" look of the cage better. Not sure what you used for a filter, but would something like an outdoor pond filter work?

Thanks though! I take pride in this stuff. I love setting up their cages and getting compliments on it. Plus, when the animals happy, you're happy. 



NorCalAl said:


> I've bought four radiant heat panels - RHP - from three different makers. I understand, though, that most of the panels come from the same manufacturer and are then wired up by the various retailers - not sure if that's true.
> 
> Helix makes/retails some very nice units. The plugs are not attached to the cords allowing you to snake the cord through a small hole then attach the plug itself. That is nice, but it makes for a rather cheesy plug. Even so, Helix is used by many green tree python people and I've never heard of one failing. Boaphile also makes/retails several models. These come with the plug attached and the cord and plug are nice, heavy duty units. Since we're not dealing with small, skinny little escape artists here (like green trees), the hole from the plug is probably not an issue. The place you should go to is Pro-Products. These guys will not give you a quote without you answering a little questionnaire on the cage and the conditions. That ensures you'll get the correct size and wattage of heat panel.
> 
> ...



You brought up my main concern about heat panels; a hot spot. Not quite sure how I could get one "small" section to 100*+ and the rest around 85. That's two heat panels, and that's $150+. Now while I dont mind spending the money on the Tegu what so ever, $150 for JUST heating is nuts to me. But I am definitely going to talk to the guys at Pro-Products and see what they say. Maybe I can do a heat panel for ambient with a MVB(Or plain old spot light) for a basking spot. 


Thanks again guys!


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## Apophis (May 3, 2012)

Sounds like the quite the undertaking! I admire your ambition. I have seen/read of some people putting waterfalls with a pool into their vivariums with success. I hop back and forth between this forum and thetegu.com . I got most of my ideas for an enclosure from http://www.thetegu.com/forumdisplay.php?10-Tegu-Housing . I am in the middle of building an enclosure to almost the exact same dimensions as yours, but I am doing almost all the work myself, it's really been a challenge but a good learning experience. 

As far as your other questions, I mist my enclosures daily but I know some people who like the humidifiers a lot. And if you are concerned about the look of a random plastic water tub I have seen some really nice looking soaking tubs online that come in fairly large sizes. Herpsupplies.com is a good place to check for stuff like that.

I have used a plain soft light outdoor bulb in combination with a UVB strip with good success. My main problem with the MVBs is they are so fragile, but my outdoor bulb is quite sturdy.

Hope that helps a little.


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## Skeetzy (May 3, 2012)

I always wander over to thetegu, but most the time its from my google searches. Never browsed it too much, but I'm going to have to start since I read a lot of threads on here already haha. I deliver pizza, and when its dead, I just sit on my phone reading forums.

I honestly wanted to build it myself, since it would be a cheaper(not by much, the guy building it for me is very reasonable), but the only place I could is my basement, and the doorway to the basement is only 25" wide, which would make it more of a pain since my rooms on the second floor. 

Thats my problem too. One bad bump into the light and you need to spend $40-50 to replace it. Or if the tegu becomes too adventurous and you have a smashed bulb. The outdoor flood lights are $1 a piece, and much more convenient to replace frequently. 

Thanks for the herpsupplies, I was just going to order all the stuff tonight, getting a little anxious for the new guy.


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