Combining 10.0+2.0 UVB lights

[Khoilie]

Let me start by stating, I do not want to start a compact vs. tube debate in this thread.

So I've heard a few times now that compacts are not good for Tegus, they perform poorly and can even cause damage to their eyes. So i spent a few hours now looking around on the internet reading different forums and researching. I've come to the conclusion that about 90% of people agree and the other 10% dont care or have a "good enough" attitude. I made the decision to rip out the 10.0 Exo Terra compact I have now and exchange it for a tube. Luckily i found a 48" ballast from my piranha days which i payed a pretty penny for so I'll be all set tomorrow after I go to the pet store.

Heres my question, or topic for discussion...

Exo Terra recommends using both 10.0 and 2.0 UVB bulbs "for a higher visual light output".
what does this even mean?
is it absolutely necessary?
how many of you use this setup or vice versa and why?

discuss

 

[Khoilie]

so Ive got the new 10.0 tube florescent installed and the light looks completely different than the 10.0 compact, its a very soft dull purple/bluish. personally i think it looks awesome

 

[james.w]

In my tegu's cage I use a 160W MVB on one side and a 4' Repti-Sun 10.0 on the other.

 

[AP27]

Personally, I think they only recommend it as a personal preference on how much 'visible light' you want. I have a 2ft Repti-sun 10.0 in my tegus tank, and an 18" one in my beardie's. But they both also have their basking lights which create plenty of light. They give off only a soft glow, yes. But are not usually the only source of light is my point i guess. I don't see much of a point in employing an additional 2.0 just for brightness' sake.

 

[Khoilie]

my enclosure is 5' long and my UVB bulb is 4'. should i cover up some of the bulb so the cool side doesnt get so much light or just leave the entire bulb exposed?

 

[james.w]

The tube bulbs don't put off much heat so it is fine to leave it all exposed. Dark areas in a cage will promote mold/fungus growth.

 

[Deac77]

personally i dont like exoterra zoo med seems to last alot longer and be a bit more dependable i use the repti sun for my herps seems to have double the life of the exo terra at least

 

[Khoilie]

thanks james, it seems like a waste to block off half the bulb to keep the cool side dark. that just about answers my question

 

[Renske]

I know that the uvb in in europe is diverend than the uvb in amerika. But i know the repti glo and repti suns ar realy not good for a tegu. We use here the solar raptor, but this one is diverend than your solar raptors.
A solar raptor in europe gives around 400 uw/cm2 and a repti sun or repti glo just 20 to 40uw/cm2. This is realy not enough for a tegu or most other lizards. A tegu neads at least 100uw/cm2 or more.
But to know witch uvb lights ar good you can buy a uvb meter (solar meter 6.2).

 

[laurarfl]

To go to the OP question. I don't think there is enough study to know what is absolutety necessary. I have seen the Exo Terra recommendation for multiple bulbs. I don't use it because 1) if I am using a tube, it is a smaller enclosure or a low UVB need reptile and 2)I am using a basking light as well and don't need additional light. When using the flourescent tubes, it is important to get them within range of the basking spot. They are not effective at far distances, so they work best at less than 10-12" and not obstructed by screen.

 

[james.w]

The 10.0 tubes are effective up to 20".

 

[laurarfl]

But the UVB levels are quite low beyond 12"

---

"OK. here's a few readings so you can get an idea of the comparison. There isn't
a lot of difference between the T8 ZooMed Reptisun 10 and the T8 Arcadia D3+.
Yes, the Arcadia produces slightly higher levels but if your reptile shifties
himself an inch or so nearer, he'll get the same from the Reptisun 10.

These are all new tubes that have burned-in, i.e., I've used them for about 100
hours (10 days use) so their output has settled down.
These are all in plain fixtures, no reflectors, no mesh. UV Index readings with
Solarmeter 6.5.

24" long, 18watts, T8 Zoomed Reptisun 10.0:
at 8" - UVI 1.4
at 10" - UVI 1.1
at 12" - UVI 0.8

24" long, 18watts, T8 Arcadia D3+ 12% Reptile:
at 8" - UVI 1.7
at 10" - UVI 1.3
at 12" - UVI 1.0

22" long, 24watts, T5 Arcadia D3 6% Reptile:
at 8" - UVI 2.2
at 10" - UVI 1.7
at 12" - UVI 1.4

22" long, 24watts, T5 Arcadia D3+ 12% Reptile:
at 8" - UVI 4.2
at 10" - UVI 3.1
at 12" - UVI 2.4

Best wishes,
Frances"

and later:
"24" long, 18watts, T8 Zoomed Reptisun 10.0: (lamp ref BZ19)
at 8" - UVI 1.4 and 43µW/cm² and 755 lux
at 10" - UVI 1.1 and 33µW/cm² and 575 lux
at 12" - UVI 0.8 and 26µW/cm² and 454 lux
UVI : UVB ratio 1: 29.3"


I wold think the jump from 12" to 20" is pretty significant. This information was from Nov 2011, so it is fairly recent.

 

[Khoilie]

ok im good then. im using the 10.0, its on the inside of the enclosure with nothing but air in between the bulb and my Tegu. I measured 17" from bulb to substrate and 14" from bulb to his basking spot.

basking spot is 90F and the cool side is around 75F most of the time

cool, thanks guys

 

[Renske]

Al the uvb lights laurarfl told of are realy bad. It a pitty you gus cant use the uvb lights we have in europe...

The solarr raptor, bright sun uv or powersun...

30 cm = 11.8 inch

Solar raptor:

animal to spot: 40cm

animal to spot: 40cm

animal to spot: 50cm

animal to spot: 50cm

Bright sun uv:

animal to spot: 30cm (200uw/cm2)

Powersun:

animal to spot: 30cm (50uw/cm2)

In europe almost no one use uvb lights like repti glo or arcadia becouse they have almost no effect...

Here some reptiles how get solar raptor here:

Look at the shiny skin.

The light and bright color of the waterdragons.. The male is around 40inch/100cm.

Normaly in captive these anolis would be gray. But of the good uvb he gets the colors he has in the wild.

More pictures of the animals on: www.facebook.com/quolibet

greetings renske