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Julieonna

New Member
Messages
17
Location
Machias, Washington
Hey there. I'm not sure if anyone addressed the fact that Tegus go through a adolescent stage at about 8 months. They tend to get really pissy for a bit. I got my blue at 6 months and he was sweet as can be, loved to be in my eave or in my jacket. By the time he was 8 months, he didnt like being held much and even bit my neck while he was chilling in my jacket. It was completely out of the blue. Once this was past....took about almost a month maybe, he was fine. I've had him a couple years now and he is a sweet, tolerant boy. If he is fed up with me, he will arch to the side or wiggle his tail, but he doesn't bite.
Tegus go through stages. Depending on the time of year, especially. Be patient and gentle and absolutely read up. Educate yourself as much as you can. Establish a vet, get yearly checkups and make sure he has all the many things he needs.
 

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Zyn

Well-Known Member
Messages
609
Julie when did you first notice jowls on your male blue. Mine is little over 2 now and nothing yet starting to think he is a she lol
 

Julieonna

New Member
Messages
17
Location
Machias, Washington
Julie when did you first notice jowls on your male blue. Mine is little over 2 now and nothing yet starting to think he is a she lol
Logans jowels were slow to develop. I'm not sure when I really noticed them. The Blues are a lot more slender than the B&Ws or Reds.
I noticed something else that Screamed Male 1st. When he poops, at the end of his poop, he pushed out a penis. Not much longer after that, he was pushing out 2 penis', one from each side of the base of his tail. Then he releases 2 sperm plugs. So on either side of the poop You should notice the sperm plugs. Even if you didnt see him poop.
 

TeguTeep

New Member
Messages
27
Location
Kentucky, USA
All a good questions. First I would like to address Tizzay89 and help you understand inside the cage feedings.

Inside the cage feedings do not help control the sanitation of the food given. You will introduce foriegn object that shouldn't be eaten. Yes they would have dirt , leaves and twigs in their environment which they feed on but we suppose to a provide a better environment for them; hence the long survival rate in captivity. It's just not because of cage aggression, and that is a controversy within the Tegu world, which we will not get into right now. At this point right now your Tegu is protecting everything within her surroundings because she is trying to feel safe inside her small area.

Now to address your questions at hand. What I'm about to say first is what you would do if you had her inside a front opening door enclosure. In the beginning I barricaded a large area in front of BOGA'S enclosure using tall wood panels. This way you can better control the situation whatsoever may come about. If she feels comfortable inside her new enclosure and it's providing all that she need she will go back inside on her own; providing she has a ramp to get back inside.

However, you have a top lid Aquarium. This poses a challenge, but this is why we must educate ourselves first before getting into a owning Tegu, but we are hear now so...( and I'm not going to beat you up about that). You have a couple of choices hear:

1. Get her out of the enclosure the best way you know how. Then turn the Aquarium on it's side and get creative by making the top loading enclosure to a front loading one. The only problem will be the issue with the substrate.

2. Option two is to go buy a reptile enclosure with a front door access and fix it up. Then transfer her to the new temporary home. This way it will put yourself in a better position in giving her what she needs. When she is inside this new enclosure refer back to my earlier suggestion now that is inside a front loading door enclosure.

Now to address how to get her out. Take piece of cardboard and block her to one half of the enclosure and take out anything in the enclosure that will fall on her, break the glass or spill. Once everything is out, carefully lay the Aquarium on the side and coach her out with food. I would only do this when it's time to put her inside the new temporary or forever enclosure. This way you would only have to do this once. You should not be interacting with her for a while anyway so use this time to build your enclosure.

Remember, do your own research and educate yourself. Knowledge is power hear. The more you know the better you can provide for your Tegu.

I do hope this helped.
Were gonna get on this right away. I’ve worked construction my entire life so I’m actually thinking about building a tank for her. Gonna do 4’x3’x3’ and put it in the corner of our bedroom so she gets used to seeing us even at night.
 

James Smith

Active Member
Messages
200
Were gonna get on this right away. I’ve worked construction my entire life so I’m actually thinking about building a tank for her. Gonna do 4’x3’x3’ and put it in the corner of our bedroom so she gets used to seeing us even at night.


Just remember as she get older she will need something closer to 8 ft long.
 

Walter1

Moderator
Staff member
1,000+ Post Club
5 Year Member
Messages
4,384
All are good approaches. They need to hear your voice and its intonations, this way a sharp no is understood for what it is. Likewise, gentle intermittant talk will become reassuring as it gets to know you by sight, smell, and voice.
 

Tizzay89

Member
Messages
83
Yeah james.. I honestly just thought about what else you meant by not feeding in cage.. you are right and no way to avoid mess as they shake alot sometimes while eating lol.. sadly I have worn chicken guts a few times.
Also impaction is a risk as well inside cage.
 

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